Silk “Secret Pajamas”: McCall’s 6848

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Silk “Secret Pajamas”: McCall’s 6848

It’s time for another garment from my 2017 Summer Sewing list!  McCall’s 6848, View C is a top I’ve made before (in pre-blogging days, maybe?)…and one that I love!  I really wanted to make this simple top out of a flowy fabric to wear to work and church as well as with casual bottoms.  When I saw that Fabric Mart had black silk crepe de chine on sale, I knew that I had found my ideal fabric.

Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

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Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

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Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

Now I know that silk is often viewed as a fabric that needs a lot of special care, but that is really up to you.  If you want to dry clean your silk, you can, but you can also throw it in the washer and even the dryer if you want to.  It does change the look of the fabric a bit if you wash it, but it doesn’t damage the fabric in any way.  So, while I actually prefer the look of the prewashed silk, I knew that I wouldn’t dry clean it due to cost and inconvenience, so I prewashed and dried.

Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

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Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

Sewing up this pattern was really fast and easy.  I made it in a size large this time.  It only has three pattern pieces:  a front, a back, and a neckband.  It was easy to sew the side and shoulder seams with French seams, and the neckband encloses the raw edge around the neck.  For the sleeves, I just did a basic hem with the raw edge turned under so that it was enclosed.  Fast and easy with no exposed edges left to fray in the wash!

Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

(front view, above)

Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

(back view, above)

I love the boxy cut and drape of this shirt and, while I wear it as an everyday shirt rather than as pajamas, I can feel how lovely this would be as a silk pajama top.  If you are looking for a basic drapey, boxy shirt pattern that is quick and easy, this is for you!  I’ve already got another cut out in rayon.  Highly recommend!

Silk "Secret Pajamas":  McCall's 6848

Recommendations

  • Proceed with caution if you try this one out!  Cooking Fever is a fun (and addictive) game where you have to serve your customers food as quickly as possible.  The better you do, the more (virtual) money you’ll have to upgrade your appliances and restaurant.  My fast food establishment is pretty awesome by now, I have to say!  😉
  • The Refashioners blog series and competition is up and running again this year with a theme of suits.  If you love refashioning, you can remake a suit into a new garment to compete for prizes (rules and prizes can be found here).  Right now, Portia, owner of the Makery blog which is hosting the event, is posting inspiration by various bloggers.  I was completely blown away when I saw Joost’s zebra-inspired coat.  You HAVE to check it out!
  • I just finished the audiobook version of Wonder by R. J. Palacio.  It was a great kids’ fiction book about the power of kindness.
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The Perfect Summer Cutoffs: Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

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The Perfect Summer Cutoffs:  Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

It’s late summer here, and I think it’s time I introduced you to my most-worn shorts of the season.  This year I finally realized that the shorts I’ve been making myself are kind of…well, short.  This may have been obvious to everyone around me, but it really wasn’t obvious to me until I realized that I wanted some longer shorts and only had one pair that I had thrifted.  But I know how to sew, so that’s a problem I can fix!  😀

Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

Enter what is quickly becoming a favorite pattern not only for my husband (see versions one and two of his cargo pants from this pattern), but also for me (my pants version is here):  Thread Theory’s Jutland Pants pattern.

Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

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Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

My husband loves this pattern because he loves cargo pants, but I love this pattern because, for some reason, it fits me!  It doesn’t fit me to the sewing world standard of “perfect fit”.  It fits me in the way women would want a pair of men’s jeans to fit for that authentic “boyfriend jeans” look or in the way that you want a pair of work pants to fit.

Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

This summer, I dreamed of a pair of long cutoffs that weren’t tight, but were loose and comfortable.  More and more, I realize that I want my summer clothes to be loose and breezy, and my winter clothes to feel like a warm hug.  😉

Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

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Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

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Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

Before our trip out to visit family earlier in the summer, I cut these jeans out of a non-stretch denim that I bought at Fabric Place Basement, and flew through the sewing!  I wanted these done FAST, so I didn’t do much extra top-stitching or any seam finishes beyond zigzagging my seam allowances.  I didn’t even hem them, because I wanted them to look like cutoffs.  I figured that I was making them secure enough to last, but if they showed some fraying and wear and tear, they would have even more of that authentic look.  And let me just say, I LOVE these shorts.  In fact, I have to hold myself back from wearing them every day.

The only thing I did differently from my pants version (besides the length) was to use the actual Jutland Pants back pockets rather than the back pockets from the Ginger Jeans.  I knew that the Jutland Pants back pockets were bigger and more square, but I just wanted to try them to see if I would like them.  And I do!

Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

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Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

Another thing I like about these shorts is that you can wear them long or roll them up one or two times, giving you some different options.  I probably wear them rolled up twice most often, but I really like all the different lengths I can achieve.  Now I’m beginning to wonder if they would look good in canvas and if I have enough left over from other Jutland pants I’ve made…

Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

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Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

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Thread Theory Jutland Pants as Boyfriend Jeans

That might be a job for next summer, though.

Recommendations

    • After going to New Hampshire’s White Mountains, I would definitely recommend them!  Now I want to go back and go camping!  (You can see my last post for some pictures of our trip.)
    • I just finished listening to the audio version of Willpower:  Rediscovering the Greatest Human Strength by Roy Baumeister and John  Tierney.  It was a really fascinating psychological look at what willpower is and how you can cultivate it in your life.  I think I need to go back and listen through it again.
    • Devon Iott (@missmake on Instagram) does it again!  I’ve got her version of Style Arc’s Josie Hoodie in my head, and now I want to make my own!
    • This video is a little longer than what I usually post, but it was interesting to learn about the “Pros & Cons of Common Fabrics” both for everyday and as far as environmental impact.  I definitely learned some things!

Outside in August

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Outside in August

This one is coming to you a little later in the day than usual, but that’s because I was on a mini-vacation Wednesday to Thursday and we got back late last night.  I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to share some photos of where we went, because there was so much beautiful outdoor scenery.  Despite the fact that these pictures were all shot on my phone rather than with my DSLR, I think there are still some good ones.  Get ready to vicariously visit the White Mountains of New Hampshire!

The first place we went was Diana’s Bath in the North Conway area of New Hampshire (NH).  It’s a series of little water falls that you can explore and play in.

Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

I guess this post could also be sub-titled “Amazing Fungi of New Hampshire”.  There were so many weird and amazing fungi all over the woods!

Next we went over to Lost River Gorge and Boulder Caves in North Woodstock, NH.  With the help of boardwalks built along a river, you can explore the rocks and caves in a way you wouldn’t be able to otherwise.  These pictures don’t do justice to the amazing boardwalk system they have here (which has over 1,000 steps) or the caves you can squeeze through if you so desire.

Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

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Outside in August

It was a great trip, and I hope we can go back and explore more one day.  Have you ever been to the White Mountains?  What did you do there?

Vintage Butterick 3731 Dress in Blue Rayon Challis

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Vintage Butterick 3731 Dress in Blue Rayon Challis

This summer we attended two weddings, which seemed like a great reason to challenge myself to sew a few dresses.  I’ve never been much of a dress-wearer, but I’d like to find a style or two that I like for summer, and wear dresses more.  My original plans involved making a fit-and-flare dress for the first wedding and Butterick 3731 for the second, but creative plans often change.  I don’t know what it is, but so far, after trying two different patterns, the fit-and-flare, darted-bodice dress style eludes me.  There must be some fitting knowledge that I’m missing.  So, after a hearty (but failed) attempt, I put that style aside and got to work on Butterick 3731.

Vintage Butterick 3731

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Vintage Butterick 3731

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Vintage Butterick 3731

This pattern is probably only my second vintage pattern that I’ve worked from.  On one of my trips to the Brimfield Antique Show I found this pattern, which was in my bust size…but was missing instructions.  The antique dealer gave it to me for free since it only had the pattern pieces.  I posted about it online, and crossed my fingers hoping that someone in the sewing community would have it and could send me directions.  And a wonderful lady named Sara did.  Isn’t the sewing community great that way?  Thanks again, Sara!

Vintage Butterick 3731

My original intention was to make the maxi dress.  I graded the waist and hips out to fit my measurements and made a muslin (which was a good idea, because I found a few little problems I needed to fix).  Then I bought some rayon challis from Joann Fabrics at a great price.  The fabric is one designed by Gretchen Hirsch for Joann’s, which I was excited to try.  I laid it all out, only to realize that in grading the waist and hips up, I hadn’t considered the sweep of the skirt.  It was too wide and I didn’t have quite enough fabric.  I could have made the skirt more narrow, but even so, I was somehow still short on fabric, so I decided that this dress would have to be the shorter version.

Vintage Butterick 3731

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Vintage Butterick 3731

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Vintage Butterick 3731

This pattern was so easy to make and fit!  It was great to have a project that wasn’t overly hard to fit!  That being said, however, there were little parts where notches didn’t align or seams needed to be finished beyond what the directions instructed.  I made sure to use French seams or clean-finished seams so the insides would look relatively nice.  My goal wasn’t perfection, just a dress that was well-made and that I felt comfortable in.  And I do feel comfortable in this dress.  I’ll admit that the picture of how I look in my head isn’t exactly how I look in real life, but I still love the dress.

Vintage Butterick 3731

The flowy fabric turned out to be a good choice as well.  It’s soft, yet cool. I will say, however, that having used both the rayon challis from Cotton + Steel on a shirt for my mom as well as this rayon challis from Joann’s, there is a marked difference.  I don’t have full confidence that the fabric in this dress will stand up to wear and tear, whereas the Cotton + Steel rayon feels really durable.  Cotton + Steel rayon is also far, far more expensive, so you have to weigh your priorities.  This was the right fabric for this dress at the right price point.  I’d still really love to make the maxi version, but that will also have to wait for the right fabric at the right price point…that maxi will take a lot of fabric!

Vintage Butterick 3731

If anyone is thinking of trying this pattern (and it seems like there are a number of copies out there on Etsy and other sites), I would recommend it.  It’s comfortable, easy to fit, and great in a drapey fabric.  Despite a few little oddities in the directions (a few notches that didn’t match up and a facing that ran a little short), the directions and pattern pieces are good overall.  It also feels current as the ’70’s return yet again.  😉  I’d love to try this in a soft linen.

Vintage Butterick 3731

Recommendations

  • Siobhan of the blog Just Keep Sewing made one of my favorite versions of the Victory Patterns Hannah dress, which is on my 2017 Summer Sewing list.
  • If you love 1970’s fashion, you might want to check out the #70sfashioncult hashtag on Instagram.  It’s full of patterns and ’70’s clothes.  You could even add your own retro creations or ’70’s patterns!
  • Do you live in the Midwest of the USA?  If you do, and you have a Meijer near you (which is like a Midwestern Target), try their Michigan Cherry coffee.  It’s one of my favorites!  Several of my friends in New England have also grown to love it since I have wonderful in-laws and parents who are willing to ship it to me.  😉
  • Since knowledge is power, let me help you with your bowling game.  After watching this, I want to ask my local bowling alley if they oil their lanes with ‘The Badger’ or ‘The Cheetah’ or a house pattern.  They’ll probably think I’m super cool if I do that.  Right? 😉  Check it out:  The hidden oil patterns on bowling lanes.

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

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Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

Hi, sewing friends!  It’s been awhile!  I planned to take all of July off from the blog, but had to stretch it a little longer.  We had family in town and I had no time to take pictures!  I finally rectified that, though, so it’s back to your regularly scheduled sewing posts. 🙂

First up is something I finished back in June.  It’s the Eucalypt Woven Tank Top & Dress Sewing Pattern from Megan Nielsen Patterns.  I have had this pattern for ages and have been wanting to make it, but haven’t until this summer.  I made two different versions of the tank in the same fabric.

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

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Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

According to my measurements, I’m a medium at the bust and a large at the waist and hips, so that’s what I made for my first version.  I made it from a polyester crepe de Chine I bought at Hobby Lobby a few years ago that I’ve been saving to use for a wearable muslin.  Since the fabric is pretty shifty, I traced my pattern pieces out as full pieces rather than half pieces as printed.  Whenever I do this, I layer two pieces of tracing paper on top of each other and tape them together.  Then I line up my tracing paper at the cut-on-fold line, and trace the half piece.  I cut that out and then unfold my taped together tracing paper into a full pattern piece!  Since this was a PDF and I cut the pattern out, I just taped a piece of tracing paper to the pattern piece and cut it out to the same shape.  Then I opened it up so I could have a full piece.  Check it out:

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns in Two Versions

Version one was a bit tight across the back and the bust and was also a little tight on the front armscye.  I decided to go up a size on the bust and make a straight large for my second version since I was having some tightness all around.

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

Back

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

Tightness on the armhole front

Version two turned out a lot better!  I’m much happier with the fit overall.

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

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Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

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Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

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Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

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Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

Front view

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

Back view

So, now, here is my quandary.  There are a few fit issues despite how comfortable it is.  The shoulder seam line looks like it is too far back.

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

The side seam also curves as it reaches the top in a way that I’m sure it is not supposed to.

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

And I have some excess fabric in the back, that makes it look like I need a swayback adjustment.

Eucalypt Tank from Megan Nielsen Patterns (Two Versions)

If I wear the top as is, it is comfortable and provides good undergarment coverage.  If I pull the shirt forward so that the shoulder seam sits where it should, the swayback problem disappears, but I have gaping in the armholes that make it look like I need a dart.  So, do I just ignore the weirdness and make any future tanks just like version two?  Do I do a swayback adjustment to get rid of the excess or add a dart?  Do I tinker with it?  Do I care enough to do a bunch of stuff?  I don’t know.  It is really nice to have a quick and easy pattern that you like and can just whip up.  What would you do?

Lastly, ever since I finished my 2017 Make Nine, I’ve sort of been floundering around with my sewing.  I feel like I have a very short attention span, want to sew all the things, and get tempted by new patterns left and right.  I missed that sense of purpose I felt when I made my MakeNine goals, so I decided that since summer is really only half over (we have until the autumnal equinox in September!), I was going to make a summer sewing plan.

2017 Summer Sewing

I posted it on Instagram and even made a hashtag for it:  #2017summersewing.  I only chose six garments, and I’ll feel free to slip other little things in if I want to, but these are things I plan to make.  So, one down and blogged, five to go!  I’ll keep you posted, but feel free to join in with your own projects if you want to!  I already feel more focused and creative in my sewing.  🙂

Recommendations

  • One of my new Instagram discoveries is @plantsonpink .  It is literally pictures of plants in front of pink backgrounds.  Why is this so satisfying?  Well, I do like plants, pink, and pink and green!
  • Speaking of plants, I’m really enjoying going through Six Seasons:  A New Way With Vegetables by Joshua McFadden with Martha Holmberg.  He breaks the year into the normal four seasons, but then divides summer down into three (giving you Spring, Early Summer, Midsummer, and Late Summer, as well as Fall and Winter).  The recipes in each section highlight various vegetables that are in season at that time.  I’ve learned to love vegetables in recent years, so I’m always looking for new and creative ways to use them.
  • I was up in Exeter, NH with family on a recent Thursday and happened upon the Exeter Farmer’s Market.  It’s amazing!  It has a great variety of produce, meat, baked goods, flowers, and so much more.  I was really impressed.  I definitely recommend it if you are in the area on a Thursday.
  • I’ve heard New Zealand is beautiful.  It sounds like a great place to visit.  And here is one more reason to want to go–the safety video from Air New Zealand!

Striped Lark Tee

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Striped Lark Tee

I love black and white stripes for graphic impact.  It was something I never thought about until a few years ago when I bought a black and white striped shirt.  It went with so many things and brought something really cool to every outfit I paired it with.

Black and White Striped Lark Tee

About a year ago, I would have said that it was crazy to spend time sewing t-shirts when they can be bought so cheaply, but I think differently now.  T-shirts are quick, satisfying, and really fun.  They are the perfect project in between more difficult projects because, not only are they fun and easy, they build your wardrobe.  For all these reasons, I decided to make a black and white striped Lark Tee (pattern by Grainline Studio).

Lark Tee in Black and White Stripes

This is now my second Lark Tee (my first, a long-sleeved, scoop-neck version can be found here).  This time I went for short sleeves and a crew neck.  Here are my notes:

  • notch out rather than into the seam allowances, since they are only 1/4″
  • leave the shirt length as is if you plan to tuck your shirt in
  • for a more standard t-shirt length, cut off 4″-4 1/2″

Because I planned to wear this shirt untucked, I cut off about 4″ using a stripe as my cutting guide, which was just right.  (For reference, I’m 5 feet, 8 1/2 inches tall.)  I tried to cut the neckband with one stripe going around the neck, but it didn’t work out well, so I switched to the neckband you see in the pictures, which I really like.

Black and White Striped Lark Tee

The fabric is a really nice rayon/Lycra from Pintuck & Purl.  I would say it’s somewhere in the light- to mid-weight zone, but is still fairly opaque.  It was great to work with.

Black and White Striped Lark Tee

Overall, I like this pattern.  Sometimes I wish there was a little more shaping on the sides, but I can always add that later.  I would really like to try a v-neck version at some point, maybe with this fabric, but we’ll see.

Black and White Striped Lark Tee

Do you have any favorite t-shirt patterns you want to share?  I’d love to hear about them in the comments.

Recommendations

  • Bird feeders.  My family got me a pole you can attach to a railing as well as a bird feeder for Mother’s Day, and I love looking outside and watching the birds.  I think I need a hummingbird feeder that is easier to clean, though.  We have an old one, and it gets dirty quickly and is hard to clean.  Does anyone have any resources for making or buying an easy-to-clean hummingbird feeder?
  • I may have mentioned this book before, but I’ve been looking through Leda Meredith’s book Northeast Foraging over breakfast most mornings.  It’s fascinating.  This year I want to try Salicornia.
  • Ever since I met Heather Lewenza this spring and saw her Hannah dress in person (pattern by Victory Patterns), I can’t get it out of my head.  It might have to be a summer project…
  • What if this happened every time we used “literally” when we actually meant “figuratively”?  Hahahaha!

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

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Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

It’s almost officially summer (the Summer Solstice is June 21st in the Northern Hemisphere this year), and it’s FINALLY starting to get warm here!  I am so ready to think about summer sewing!

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

I completely got sucked into that change-of-season-restlessness/spring fever feeling going around, which is bad for your wallet, sewing, and general contentedness and I wanted to SEW ALL THE THINGS!  The fact that this feeling coincided with the end of my Make 9 was rough, because it left me very unfocused and mentally breathless.  Luckily, however, I found this project which actually fills a gap in my wardrobe for a cropped light layer that works with dresses and other garments with a natural waistline.  It was also a great project after the surprising complexity of the shirt from my last post because I’ve made this before, so it fits and I know it goes quickly.  Unfortunately, my having made it before didn’t stop me from making a small blunder, as you’ll see.

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

Today’s project is the cropped Coppelia Cardi by Papercut Patterns.

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

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Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

This is a wrap top with raglan sleeves.  It has a neckband, cuffs, and long ties that also function as a waistband.  It’s close-fitting, but comfortable in a fabric with the right amount of stretch.

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

Before sewing this, I relied on a few ready-to-wear options that I had when I needed this kind of garment, but they weren’t ideal (one is a wintry knit and the other is very casual).  So this year, when a midweight, four-way stretch rayon/Lycra knit went on sale at Cali Fabrics, I jumped on board and got some in order to make this a reality.

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

This is the second time I’ve made this cropped, wrap cardi (The first, as well as the long faux wrap version can be found here.).  This time around I did most things the same way.  I do a few recommendations, however.  I sewed around the hole that the tie goes through with a closely spaced zigzag, like you would with a buttonhole.  A straight stitch looks much better, but I wanted it to stretch.  Test your stitch on some scrap fabric first, though, because I had some distortion of the fabric the first time I tested it.  I also recommend trimming the bottom edges of your neckband after beginning to attach the waistband/tie so that you trim it at the correct angle (yes, I’ve now trimmed it wrong twice).  Finally, when the directions tell you to stretch your neckband as you stitch it, you really need to do that, maybe even slightly more than you think.  I didn’t and you can see that my neckband stands away from my body a bit in a way it shouldn’t.  I was afraid to stretch too much, so instead I went to the other extreme and stretched too little.  Hopefully I’ve learned my lesson.

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

Neckband issues aside, I’m really happy to have this in my closet.  It will be a good, yet inexpensive way to see if this is a style that I will feel good in with some of my natural-waisted garments.

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

Other sewn outfit details:

Skirt:  Megan Nielsen Brumby Skirt; blogged here

Camisole:  Shortened slip from McCall’s 6696; unblogged

Cropped Coppelia Cardi for Summer

Recommendations

  • Have you seen the jeans Jenny of the SoleCrafts blog made?  Jeans are impressive enough on their own, but she made her own pattern!  People who make their own patterns continually amaze me.  I love reading Jenny’s blog because, even though we have different styles, she is completely fearless in her projects and figures out things I would use a pattern for or didn’t even know you could make at home (like shoes!).  Amazing.
  • Speaking of making shoes, Carolyn of Handmade by Carolyn makes ALL her clothes, shoes included!  You can watch a video of her talking about the shoes she has made here.
  • I definitely prefer paper sewing patterns over PDF patterns, and one more thing that has always been a strike against PDFs for me is that you either have to print a bunch of pages at home, or pay close to the price of the pattern to have the large sheets printed at a copy shop.  Jenny of Cashmerette talks on her blog about how to print those large pages cheaply, and she goes over resources to do this for numerous countries.  What a great idea.  Even with my love for paper patterns, I certainly have several PDFs.  The more money we save on printing, the more we have for fabric!  😉

 

Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top: Butterick 4259

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Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top: Butterick 4259

Wow!  This pattern was a crazy one.

Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

I got Butterick 4259 for Christmas from my family.  I fell in love with the shape and style of the pattern and–let’s be honest–the cover art.  This is a vintage pattern with “Young Designer Kenzo” printed on the front.  I’ve never tried one of the vintage designer patterns, so this seemed like a good start, since it didn’t look too complicated.

Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

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Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

Well, the shape wasn’t, but…let’s just say I would love to hear the story of how this pattern was produced.  I made a muslin, just to be safe, even though I thought the shirt would fit, although I planned to widen the waist and hips.  I’m so glad I made that muslin because I ran into a significant problem:  the collar was drafted to fit the shirt before the front plackets were folded in.  So, I either had to shrink the collar to a size that would be too tight or expand the shirt.

Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

The main pattern pieces were really interesting, too.  Rather than a front and a back piece, there was a right side piece that was the front and the back and a left side piece that was along the same lines.  The picture below doesn’t show the whole piece, but hopefully it give you an idea.  The curve on the right is the neckline and the curve on the left is the sleeve.  The piece is about twice as long as what you see here.

Vintage Butterick 4259 by Kenzo

As far as the fit of the shirt, I decided I liked the size of the collar, so I cut down the length of the right and left side pattern pieces and spread them apart to add the necessary amount of length at the collar, which also widened the shirt.  (You can see this above.)  Then I removed the extra width I had added at the waist and hips.  This worked well, making the shirt and the collar compatible.  I was lucky enough to be able to consult my friend’s mother, who was a professional seamstress for years, and she also advised me to lower the collar in the front by a quarter inch to bring it down from my neck and closer to my collar bone.  She also thought this would help with the problem of the shirt pulling to the back, and it largely did, but you can still see that the back hem hangs lower than the front, which I don’t think is an intentional design element.  The shirt itself has a number of weird drag lines that I don’t love but in the end, we sort of just declared it good enough.

Vintage Butterick 4259 by Kenzo

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Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

I ran into problems with the directions as well.  The way that the front interfacing is supposed to be applied seemed wrong, resulting in interfacing that would be visible inside when it was easy to enclose it, so I used my common sense to enclose the interfacing on the plackets.

Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

I feel like, fitting-wise, this pattern is a bit tortured.  I would be interested to see it in a drapier fabric, but it really felt like a pattern that wasn’t tested or edited well.  I don’t usually run into that in the Big Four patterns that I sew with, so, like I said, I’m really curious about what the process was to get this particular pattern produced.  Maybe when my sewing skills are at a higher level, I’ll revisit it and work on the collar and sleeve areas to see if I can get rid of some of those drag lines.  The pattern in its current state doesn’t make the grade as my summer dream shirt, but it has potential.

Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

In case you are curious about my final version, I used “You’re my Anchor Natural” in the Bluebird line from Cotton + Steel (purchased here) as well as vintage buttons and some of the Art Gallery lightweight denim for the pocket and inside collar stand.

Vintage Butterick 4259 by Kenzo

The denim was left over from these shorts.  I’m not entirely sure if I love the pocket, so I may take it off.  What would you do?

Vintage Kenzo for Butterick Top

One great thing about finishing this project is that with it, I finish up my 2017 Make Nine!  Yes!  This was my last one!  All the others were blogged with the exception of the Liesl + Co. Gallery Tunic since that was not for me (it was for my Mom, one of the few people I’m willing to consider sewing for other than myself–and that’s rare).

So, what’s next?  I’d really like to try to find some dress styles that I like, I have a few bathing suits I’d like to attempt (although I’ve shelved those for the moment to focus on the dress sewing), and who knows what else?  I have tons and tons of things I would love to try making, but sometimes that can be counter-productive (a.k.a. overwhelming–I want to SEW ALL THE THINGS!!!).  Maybe I need a new Make Nine just to keep me semi-focused.  😉

And in case you want to look it over, I reviewed this pattern over on PatternReview.  🙂

Recommendations

  • I would really love to make these Lobster Roll Sliders from Tastemade.
  • I still think it’s hilarious that this store is real, but I recently discovered FatFace when a store opened in our area.  Yes, this store is real and yes, it sells clothes to women (and men and children), and the style is pretty cool.  It still baffles my mind that the men who started this company think the name was a good idea (I think they named it after a mountain), but I am inspired by the style.
  • Rachel from Maker Style did a Q & A episode on her podcast and she mentioned me!  OK, it was just because she was answering the question I submitted, but I’ve never been mentioned on a podcast before, so I was excited.  I really love her podcast, which is all about garment sewing (and the businesses that are connected to that), and I highly recommend it if you like podcasts and sewing clothes.
  • I’m not sure what to say about this video, except that Americans do eat a lot of potatoes.  Here is Rita Pavone singing “My Name is Potato”.  My Italian is pretty rusty, so I apologize if there are any bad words or sketchy things I missed.

Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top in Striped Rayon Knit

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Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top in Striped Rayon Knit

Hi, friends!  It’s back to sewing this week.  I have a nice little backlog of sewing projects to share, but the weather hasn’t been cooperating for picture taking.  When the clouds started to brighten on Wednesday, I rushed outside to take pictures of this shirt.

Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top

This is the Coco Top from Tilly and the Buttons.

Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top and Dress

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Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top and Dress

I made the dress version around the time I began sewing regularly, but I had never made the top.  The fabric came from Haberman Fabrics in Royal Oak, Michigan, and I’ve been holding onto it for over a year trying to figure out the best use for it.  It’s a great substantial rayon jersey that is actually reversible:  blue and white on one side and orange and white on the other.  I really wanted to make a reversible garment, but in the end, the mental gymnastics became too much and I decided to go with a Breton-style shirt where I could incorporate both sides of the fabric.  The Coco pattern was just right since it had the little pocket and it wasn’t hard to color block (stripe block?) the sleeves.

Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top

As far as details, I made the size 5 (Tilly has her own sizing system that is different from other patterns and ready-to-wear) in the long-sleeved shirt view with the pocket.  I used the 3/4 length sleeve line as my color/stripe blocking placement line and just added in seam allowance.  I used a jersey needle and a walking foot as well as polyester thread.  I did try out fusible stay tape for my neckline as suggested, which worked out well.  Instead of zigzagging the neckline, however, I used a twin needle, which I also used on the sleeve edges and bottom hem.  And I opted to zigzag my side seams instead of using a straight stitch.  I used to use a straight stitch on knit seams that weren’t going to stretch a lot, but after wearing those garments for a while, a lot of my stitches popped and I had to resew them with a zigzag, so I went right for the zigzag this time.

Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top

I liked sewing this pattern.  Tilly’s directions are very easy to use, and she includes helpful tips here and there.  Her pictures are really clear, and I’m a big fan of her color scheme, which makes all her images fun to look at.  I would certainly make this again–maybe in the dress version.  🙂

Recommendations

    • I recently watched the movie “Queen of Katwe” about a girl living in poverty who learns to play chess and how it changes her life.  It was excellent.
    • Itch to Stitch just released the free Lago Tank pattern.  It looks like a great basic for summer.  I’ve never tried any patterns from this brand although I’ve been tempted.  This might just be the project to start with.
    • Speaking of free sewing patterns, the Curvy Sewing Collective posted an EXTENSIVE round-up of free patterns with a great size range.
    • And to give you a laugh this week, here is a video that reimagines an important part of the Sleeping Beauty story.  😉