Have you ever admired the complexity or ingenuity in a piece of clothing in a store? I certainly do when I look at workwear and outdoor clothing. There’s so much thought that goes into each piece, not to mention interesting design lines and cool fabric. That always seemed like a fairly unachievable level of sewing, until the first time I made the Thread Theory Jutland Pants.
After sewing my first pair (Variation 2) toward the beginning of this year, I began planning another in better fabric. I knew it would be awhile before I started, but I wanted to make these again. In July, I found just the right fabric at Pintuck & Purl in Exeter, NH, a cotton brown/green English canvas that was a lovely 61″ wide. It was heavy, but nice. Once my husband approved the color, I bought the fabric, but still wasn’t ready to cut into it.
And then, like so many projects that get left in the dust when we chase after the new, it became a “someday” project. The fabric sat in my stash all summer until one day, as I was reading Thread Theory’s blog, I saw that Pattern Review was running a Menswear contest with a tempting prize–a gift card to Thread Theory’s online shop. This was it. It was time to make the pants.
Having made that first version, I had a pretty good idea of what tweaks I needed to make on this version, and there were only a few. He asked me to raise the side cargo pockets, raise the knee patches, and lengthen the belt loops–all doable.
In addition to the three yards of the canvas that I bought, I used 1.25 yards of Cotton + Steel’s cotton lawn solid in Fedora for the waistband facing, pockets, and the insides of the top of the cargo pocket flaps. Other than that, there was some midweight interfacing, bias binding, Gutterman polyester thread for construction and Gutterman topstitching thread. I used a jeans button for the front, a jeans zipper, and Velcro that was sticky on the back for the cargo pockets.
Hem reinforcement detail
As far as materials go, I loved the canvas. That turned out to be a great choice. It’s heavy and nice, but not so heavy my machine couldn’t handle it (although I have ordered a “Hump Jumper” since making these in order to prevent skipped stitches when going over multiple layers of fabric for the next time I make something like this). The lawn feels great, but was too light for the waistband facing, I think. Before fully trimming my zipper, I managed to create a hole in the facing where the zipper teeth rubbed on it. 😦 I’ll try a quilting cotton next time, at least for the waistband facing (but honestly, I’ll probably use a quilting cotton for all those little bits). The interfacing, jeans button, bias tape, and zipper were fine, as was the construction thread, which I really like. I’m done with Gutterman topstitching thread, however. After making two pairs of pants with it (these and my olive green pair), I just don’t like it. I get a lot of “thread nests” on the underside of my garments, despite using a jeans needle and making sure my tension and presser foot pressure were appropriate. Maggie at Pintuck & Purl has given me a few other kinds of topstitching thread to try out (a rainbow one and Coats brand), so we’ll see how those go on future projects. The jeans needle I used was a good choice, and the only time I had trouble with it was when I applied my Velcro. I think it was because the back of the Velcro was sticky, and it gummed up my needle. There were a lot of skipped stitches there, so I think I’ll try some without the adhesive next time. Live and learn, right?
After making this pattern twice, I have to say I still really love it. It is definitely a more complex pattern than most of the others that I make, as each step is often composed of several smaller steps, and there are a few points that had me scratching my head a bit, even the second time around. Luckily I wrote myself notes, so this time was much easier than my first attempt. I also had to remind myself not to question the directions or think I knew better. The one time I tried to go “off book” and do things my own way, I managed to sew the fly shut! Ha! It’s a good reminder to be humble and follow the directions. When I make these pants, I feel really proud of myself because they just look so good! I also think all the details and possibilities of this pattern keep it interesting, even though I’m not sewing for myself. 😉
On that front, though….I realized that this size fits me! I think one style I aspire to in the fall and winter is a girl version of outdoorsy and rugged, so I would love a pair of pants like this in my wardrobe, especially flannel-lined, which is an option with this pattern. What if I could make the flannel lining REMOVABLE?! We’ll see what happens with that! I did spend several hours on Wednesday wearing the pants around so I could see if they truly were comfortable on me. I think the outlook is positive! To that end, I bought up the last of the grey English canvas at Pintuck & Purl last time I was there…
As far as the contest goes, voting runs from the 18th-24th. If you’ve been a Pattern Review member for at least 90 days, you can vote, and I’d love your vote if you think my project deserves it. You can vote in the contest here. You can also read my review of the pattern if you want more/different information than I’ve got here. Fingers crossed!
And thanks to my husband for posing for pictures. That’s not something he likes doing, plus it was really cold that day, so I appreciate it. I suppose it doesn’t hurt that he gets a new pair of bespoke pants for Christmas out of the deal. 😉
Update: Thanks for your votes, everyone! I didn’t win the contest, but I had the second highest number of votes. So, no gift card for me, although my husband definitely won since he finally got his pants! Congratulations to the winner, who made an amazing blazer for her husband.
- The WAWAK Sewing catalogue! I saw on Instagram that @peterlappin had ordered one, so I got one myself and, I have to say, it’s pretty awesome. I even placed my first order for the previously mentioned “Hump Jumper” (Isn’t that the weirdest name?), jeans buttons, and Zipper Ease for stuck zippers. They have some cool stuff at great prices.
- I really like sewing round-ups where bloggers highlight new patterns and cool sewing projects on the web. My two current favorites are from Closet Case Files and Helen’s Closet. If you have other favorites, I’d love to hear about them in the comments!
- Simplicity 1538. This has really become my favorite button up shirt pattern, as evidenced by my first try from a vintage sheet, tiger shirt, and flannel shirt. It’s similar to the Grainline Archer in style. On Wednesday I cut out my fourth version of this shirt. I love it.
- Droste Dutch process cocoa powder. I had some left from a few recipes, so I made hot chocolate with it (plus sugar, milk, salt, and heavy cream), and it was AMAZING.