I’m really excited about the jeans I have to share with you today. I love all the details I put into them! Just like the gingham shirt from last week, jeans provide a fun chance to experiment with details.
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I made the decision to swap one of the tops (Simplicity 2255) on my 2017 Make Nine plan for some Ginger Jeans, partly because I needed some jeans, but also because I was no longer sure if that top was the right use for the precious fabric I had planned for it.
I knew that Me-Made-May was coming up, and I needed more pants, AND, last but not least, Pintuck & Purl was hosting a Jeans Sewing Master Class with Heather Lewenza of Closet Case Patterns, maker of the Ginger Jeans pattern…and, you know, I thought that warranted a new pair. 😉
I am both completely in love with these jeans and slightly annoyed by the subtle fit issues that I didn’t notice until after these were finished. We can leave the annoyances until later–let’s talk about the fun stuff!
I knew before I even had the fabric that I wanted to use yellow exposed zippers on these (partly because I completely forgot to put them in my green pair), and I knew I could do it because I learned how when making my Refashioners 2015 jacket (worn in the picture above). The instructions come from the Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing (1976 edition), my favorite sewing reference.
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I’ll give you a quick rundown of the other supplies I used and where they are from, in case you are curious (I’m always curious about these sorts of things.). Also, I know there are a billion links in this post. I love information, and I want you to have all the information I have in case it will help you. None of these are affiliate links, although I do work part-time at Pintuck & Purl.
- Ginger Jeans pattern by Closet Case Patterns: Pintuck & Purl
- stretch denim: Pintuck & Purl
- yellow exposed zippers: ZipIt Zippers on Etsy (a really great shop for zippers!)
- sparkly gold fly zipper: Pintuck & Purl
- jeans button: Wawak
- yellow Gutermann topstitching thread and navy Gutermann construction thread: Jo-Ann Fabrics
- red Coats topstitching thread: either Pintuck & Purl or Jo-Ann’s
- interfacing: Jo-Ann Fabrics
- Amy Butler Daisy Chain fabric for pockets, waistband lining, and bias tape on the hem: ?? (I can’t remember where I got this! It’s been in my stash for a long time.)
- gold leather patch: a gift from Elizabeth Berthoud of Sac A main
One great discovery with this pair of jeans is that my Singer Featherweight sewing machine does great with Gutermann topstitching thread. I was ready to swear that thread off because it didn’t do well in my Elna 3005 the last time I made jeans, but this time I set up both machines so I could use my Elna for construction and my Featherweight for topstitching, and both machines did great with their respective threads. I used the red Coats topstitching thread in the Elna and it worked great. It’s so rare that anything disagrees with my Elna that I assumed the problem was with the thread, but I’m glad I tried the Gutermann with the other machine (admittedly, I only did this because it was the only yellow/gold topstitching thread I had on hand and I didn’t want to run out to get more).
So, with the exception of the exposed zippers, which I had to put in before doing the pockets, I followed the directions as written. I made a size 14, View A (low rise, stovepipe legs). The back pocket topstitching design came from a bunch of topstitching designs Heather sent out to newsletter subscribers. It was really fun to pick one out.
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I was also inspired by my coworker Lauren to add bias trim to the hem of the my pants and a contrasting thread color on my buttonhole as well as some contrasting bartacks. She makes cool clothes.
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So let’s talk fabric. I chose this great stretch denim, and I really love it. It’s very different (in a good way) from the inexpensive denim I used for my first pair. It has a great hand and feels substantial, yet still stretchy. What I DIDN’T do (but should have) is wear my jeans around for a few hours after basting them. I was impatient. I admit it. I basted them, wore them around for a few minutes, and called them good. And they were. They were just right. So, I sewed them up, and finished them off. I washed them to get any chalk marks off and hung them up to dry (by the way, I did wash and dry the fabric in the dryer more than once before making these). Then, I put them on and…they seemed a little looser than I remembered…and a little longer than my other two pairs. Hm. In my concern about not making them too tight (you know I love some ease!), I didn’t account for differences in fabric. This stretch denim is stretchier than my other two pairs.
I also asked Heather to take a look at my jeans during a lull in the jeans class (I was around to help out on day one), and she gave me a few fitting tips that she said could remove the excess fabric in the back and my need for a belt. Her advice was both generous and helpful, and might also apply to my gray pants with the mysterious extra fabric in the back. She is a fitting master. It was amazing to see her help everyone.
So, final analysis: I LOVE these jeans. I think they are my coolest-looking jeans to date (the green pants are sort of in their own category, I think), and I am always mystified when people don’t stop me and tell me how awesome they are. 😉
That being said, I really wish the fit was as perfect as I thought it was when I basted them together and tried them on. They are a little looser than I want them, and I definitely have to wear a belt. BUT…this is all part of the learning curve for making pants, right? As much as I wish I had all pants-fitting knowledge magically deposited in my brain, that is never going to happen, and I really do remember fitting things better when it is something I’ve had to learn the hard way (Darn it! WHY is there no silver bullet/magic potion/easy answer? Learning and skill development actually takes WORK! Shocking!).
If you are thinking about making jeans, the Ginger Jeans pattern is a GREAT pattern. It was much less scary than I thought it would be and the directions plus the sew-along are really, really helpful and well done. Heather clearly does her research. Go for it!
Recommendations
- I just found out about @tinycarpenter_ on Instagram. It’s a little Lego guy who uses big people tools for his carpentry work. Fun!
- I love sewing inspiration, and I find a lot of it in catalogues from companies like J.Crew and Boden. Often when I see clothing that I really like, I can think of a pattern that matches it. I think of this as shopping for inspiration.
- And, um, here is a little prom dress inspiration for you (hahaha!):
Pattern and Branch 