A Linen Jacket for my Friend: Simplicity 8172

It’s not too often that I sew for someone else, but today’s project is one of those rare ones.  I can probably count on one or two hands the people I’m willing to sew for, and my friend Jo-Alice definitely makes the cut.  If I listed all of her wonderful qualities, this blog post would become a book, but let’s just say that she’s one of those rare people who manages to be both very real and very loving—not an easy feat.

When she mentioned that she liked some of the views of Simplicity 8172 after I made it last year, I mulled it over and then asked her if she still liked the pattern and would want me to make one for her.  She said she did still like it, and after I convinced her that I really wanted to make her something for her birthday, she agreed.  Being a maker of things herself (you can see some of her pottery and knitting here), she knows the time that goes into creative projects, and she didn’t want to pull me away from my personal to-make list, but this was a gift I was happy to spend the time on.

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I found some beautiful Limerick Linen by Robert Kaufman Fabrics at Pintuck & Purl as well as a floral rayon by Rifle Paper Co. for Cotton + Steel (this one I think?).  Jo-Alice chose View C, because it had some nice waist shaping, and I made a muslin out of an old sheet to check the fit.  We thought we were going to have to shorten the pattern, but the muslin showed that the length was good as drafted.

It was important to think about seam finishes on this project since the pattern doesn’t always specify what you should use.  Because the linen was on the lighter side, I chose to use French seams throughout.

The fabric itself is a slightly loose weave, which made it a bit shifty, but it was such a beautiful fabric, that I loved working with it regardless.  I kept my eye on things to make sure that everything stayed on-grain, and it was fine.

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I decided to make my bias tape from the rayon which, admittedly, I stalled on.  I really wanted to teach myself how to make continuous bias tape, but I was intimidated by learning a new process.  My co-worker, Bea, an accomplished quilter, gave me a few tips on using starch on my fabric, which was the push I needed to keep going.  She let me borrow some Linit starch, which she said to mix 1:1 with water in a spray bottle.

Next she told me to spray the back of the fabric (testing in a small area first) and then press the fabric.  I didn’t use steam.  This stiffened the fabric enough to make it really easy to work with.  It was still flexible, but wasn’t overly shifty or slippery.  After that, I used the tutorial for making bias tape in Learning to Quilt:  A Beginner’s Guide by Lori Yetmar Smith.

I made single fold bias tape to the size I needed using a bias tape maker (I got assorted sizes on Amazon—similar to these).  One yard of 44″ wide fabric make A LOT of bias tape.  I definitely could have used less, but you don’t know until you try.  And…it’s not like I mind having all this beautiful leftover bias tape.

While my bias tape was uniform on the visible side, the edges that were folded under weren’t perfectly even.  To help myself out when applying it, I sewed a line of basting stitches 3/8″ from the edge where I was going to attach the bias tape since that was the seam allowance there.  Then I lined up the folded edge with my basting stitches so that everything would look nice and even.

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The one area where I wasn’t quite sure what seam finish to use was the cuffs.  I did a quick experiment with some scrap fabric just to see if all those layers would be too bulky, but with the lighter weight of the linen it seemed OK to me, so I was able to use French seams there as well.

Overall, this was a very simple and pleasant project.  I was worried at the end that the fit would be different than it had been on the muslin, but Jo-Alice loved it, and it looked beautiful on her.  I like this longer view much better than the short view (View A) that I chose the first time I made this.  And, although I told her that she didn’t have to pose for blog photos, she has always been a huge supporter of my creative projects and assured me that she was more than willing.  She makes a great model.  We had lots of fun shooting these pictures even though it was gray and rainy out.

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Simplicity 8172 Jacket in Polyester Crepe de Chine

I’ve been thinking about adding some jackets and cardigans to my wardrobe, and Simplicity 8172 is a great summer version of that idea.  Layers can add a lot of fun to an outfit as well as giving you numerous mix and match options.  Living in New England, where summer evenings can get cool, this pattern made sense.

I started out with View A, the shortest and boxiest view.  I wanted to see if I liked it or if I would want a longer version.  I had leftover polyester crepe de chine from the Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank I made last year, and I hoped I could squeeze this jacket out of it.  The fabric came from Hobby Lobby’s clearance section a few years ago, so it was inexpensive and perfect for testing out this pattern.

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It was pretty tricky, but I managed to get the pieces cut out of what was left, although there was no chance of any sort of pattern matching.  The sewing itself was pretty easy.  It’s only two pattern pieces and three seams (shoulders and back).

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I used French seams to keep things neat inside.  Then you use bias tape around the front/neck opening and hem the sleeves and bottom.

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I took the opportunity to practice using my narrow hem foot with the instructions in my machine’s manual rather than the pattern instructions.  After that, you sew on the trim, and you’re done!  I thought about skipping the trim, but I’ve had this pom-pom trim in my stash for ages (maybe it’s from Joann’s?), and thought that adding it kicked the project up a notch.  Even if I gave it away, it would be fabulous for someone else.

After finishing, I tried the jacket on, and…it was ok, but not awesome (although the pom-poms helped).

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I don’t love where the bottom sits, but I still think it has potential, so I’d like to try View C.  I was talking it over with one of the librarians at our library when it came to me–if I find a coordinating fabric, I can trace out and cut the lower pieces and cuff and attach it to what I’ve already made, turning my View A into a shiny, new View C.  If you decide to try this pattern and view, I found that it did look better on my friend who was shorter than me (I’m 5′ 8.5″), so if you are shorter, it might be just right for you.

If a future version ends up being a winner, I think it could be great in a handkerchief linen.  Or what would it be like in ankara/wax print, crocheted lace, or a knit?  It definitely has potential.

Recommendations

• Are you watching “Making It” on NBC?  It’s hosted by Amy Poehler and Nick Offerman and is a friendly competition show that features makers who work in all different media.  They complete two challenges per show and one is eliminated at the end.  It’s funny and people are kind to one another, which is a welcome change from some of the cutthroat reality competition shows.  We don’t have cable, but I’ve found that I can watch it for free (older episodes) through my Apple TV.  You can find it on NBC’s website as well.
• I’ve never been into fitness videos, but lately my family and I have been trying out some of the free workout videos on Fitness Blender, and I have to say–I like it!  They have a really encouraging, positive approach.  My regular exercise routine died sometime in February, so I’m thinking of ways to get back to it and improve my strength, fitness, and flexibility.  I think this might be part of the answer.
• I have a favorite jacket that I thrifted that doesn’t fit me as well as I would like it to.  I’ve been toying with the idea of recreating it, and I wonder if Simplicity 8700 from Simplicity’s new Pattern Hacking line would make a good base.  The jacket has lots of seam lines, but at its core, it’s very similar to this pattern.