Tag Archives: Spring Outfit Challenge

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

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Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

It’s the first week of official summer and my Spring Outfit is finished! Hahaha. Let’s just pretend this outfit is still seasonally appropriate where I live, shall we? Let it be noted that I did actually finish the last of it a few days before the end of spring, but it was sadly too late to photograph and write up last week, plus I wasn’t feeling great, so I just didn’t get it to the blog. That means this week, instead of ‘outside in June’ photos, it’s time to wrap up this challenge and move on to some summer sewing! Woohoo!

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants
Just wearing my warm hat and long sleeves in the warm weather…totally normal.

If you have followed this challenge of mine to create a spring outfit (first laid out here), you may be surprised to see a different pants pattern in the title of this post. My initial plan was to make the Folkwear Sailor Pants. However, when the time came to work on the muslin, I read through the directions and realized that these were going to take more than a little time. They are different than normal jeans, and they would benefit from a really detailed muslin where I tried out all the techniques in my test fabric as well as looking at fit. At that point, the weather was warming up, summer sewing was galloping full-speed through my mind, and I just did not want to make these. So I put them on hold. My pattern is traced and my muslin cut out, but they can wait until fall. Maybe I will make them up then.

I have really wanted to make the Seaforth Pants by Hey June Handmade ever since they were released last year, so I bought that pattern and cut them out of some denim-y looking chambray that has been languishing in my stash for the last few years. My goal was to make them fast and hope they would fit. Not only would these complete my spring outfit, they would also be great pants to wear in the summer…more on that in a bit.

First, though, check out my spring outfit! I made it all but the shoes!

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants
Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

Maybe someday I’ll make shoes too, but for now, it was Keds to the rescue. In a perfect world, I would have sought out some oceanside wharf or something to take my pictures at since this outfit is nautical-ish in my mind, but instead you get some occasionally silly pictures closer to home.

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants
One of the aforementioned silly pictures. I think we were joking about Funny Face or something at that point.

Here are the patterns, yarn, and fabric I used from top to bottom. You can find more details on notions and small odds and ends in previous blog posts where I talk about each pattern in greater detail.

+ The Oslo Hat – Mohair Edition by Petite Knit

-mystery yarn that I think is wool plus Farmer’s Daughter Mighty Mo mohair in the color “Stagecoach Mary” from Wool & Co.

+ McCall’s 5303 Sweatshirt circa 1991

Taslan in yellow and Supplex in “Candy” (pink) from The Rain Shed

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants
Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

+ Coco top by Tilly and the Buttons

-Parchment/Black 100% cotton horizontal stripe jersey knit from Fabric Mart Fabrics (sold out)

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

+ Seaforth Pants (modified) by Hey June Handmade

-old Robert Kaufman Chambray Union Dark Indigo from Pintuck & Purl (sold out)

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

+ Undergarments

+ Sew It Forward Socks by Ellie & Mac

-old Cotton + Steel cotton/spandex knit from Pintuck & Purl (sold out)

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

I really like how this outfit turned out, and I think I will get a lot of wear out of most pieces. If I had to guess, I would say that the Oslo Hat and Seaforth Pants will get the most wear, possibly followed by McCall’s 5303. I’m guessing the socks will get the least wear. They are comfortable, but I think I should make them in a slightly stretchier fabric next time or modify the top of the socks since they are somewhat tight on my lower legs. That being said, this is a cool sock pattern and is a thousand times faster than knitting socks.

As far as what I enjoyed making the most, that would have to be the McCall’s 5303 sweatshirt (windbreaker). It was really fun and interesting to make. I loved it. The thing I had the least fun making was The Oslo Hat. It wasn’t hard–just boring to knit. If you’re looking for a pattern with lots of stockinette, so you can just knit without too much thought, though, this might be the pattern for you.

I really enjoyed doing a big coordinated project, and it definitely got me inspired and excited to get sewing. I don’t plan on doing this every season, but it was really fun to do at least once.

The Seaforth Pants by Hey June Handmade

Let’s talk in a little more detail about these pants since this is the first time they are making it to the blog.

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants
Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

Like I said, I have been wanting to make these pants for awhile.

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

When I saw the post on the Hey June blog where Adrianna, the designer, modified the pattern and made a pair of straight leg pants, I was sold.

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

It was an easy modification, I already had fabric I could use, and I thought I could finish these much faster than the Sailor Pants I had first planned to make. Added benefits were that I could skip the muslin, I could use these pants in the summer, and they would help me get an idea about how the crotch curve from this company fits me, since I also plan to make the Vero Beach shorts in the near future.

I have challenged myself this month to sew at least thirty minutes a day, six days a week, so I used one day to prep my pattern, another to cut it out, and then it was on to sewing. All of these things took longer than the thirty minutes (and sewing took several days), but that goal really helped me get moving.

I followed Adrianna’s instructions for the modified pants and also swapped the front pockets out for some patch pockets from Simplicity 8841, which I have traced onto stiff cardboard with directions glued on the back.

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants
Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

My goal was speed. I’m not the fastest sewer, but I was ready to be done with this project, as fun as it’s been. I used my serger to construct and finish seams and my sewing machine for whatever I couldn’t serge.

Inside view
Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants
Back pocket

I added grommets and a drawstring, and I love how they came out.

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

I did not add the cool bias binding Adrianna mentions in the blog post at the bottom of the pant legs. I might do that another time, though.

One thing worth noting is that when I compared my measurements to the size chart, the size 18 looked just right, and it is what I chose. When you look at the finished measurements, however, the finished hip measurement is an inch smaller than the hip measurement for the size. This made me really nervous and I almost sized up. Adrianna does talk about this and how to pick your size in the directions. After reading through that, I ended up making the 18, and it worked out great. I don’t have any problems pulling the pants over my hips–I never even think about it–but do read that part carefully (and don’t worry too much) if you make these for yourself.

I managed to finish hemming just in time to wear these to an outdoor ceremony we were attending as a family, and they were perfect. The one thing I will do when I make these again, though, is use the front pockets that are part of the pattern. I love the look of the patch pockets I chose, but if you are sitting on the ground, things do tend to fall out.

Spring Outfit Challenge Finale and the Hey June Handmade Seaforth Pants

Something I have learned from the couple of patterns I have sewn from Hey June is that when Adrianna recommends something, whether it’s a certain type of fabric or a certain type of pocket, it’s there for a good reason. I’ve gone off-book here and there and it’s been fine, but I can tell it would have been better if I had followed the recommendations more closely.

Regardless of all that, though, the pants turned out great, the crotch curve works for me, and I am so happy this fabric didn’t become a shirt dress as I had originally intended. I think it will get so much more wear in the form of these pants.

And that’s it! Spring outfit complete! On to summer!

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McCall’s 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update

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McCall’s 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update

How’s spring treating you? I’m still chugging along on my spring outfit challenge over here. Today I want to highlight the windbreaker I made! I’ll show pictures of the garments on once I have finished everything, but until then, I’m planning to talk about various patterns as they are finished.

The Pattern

McCall’s 5303 is a pattern from 1991 that is a “Learn to Sew for Fun” pattern.

My Personal Spring Outfit Challenge
McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update

I made the “sweatshirt”, which I’m calling a windbreaker since I made it out of nylon woven fabrics rather than sweatshirting. I really enjoyed sewing this pattern. I made a large–I am right between the large and extra large in sizing, but I remember the ’90’s and all the positive ease, so after consulting the finished measurements, I found a used copy of the large size and went with that.

The Fabric

The fabric I chose is a woven 7 oz. Taslan (the yellow) and 7 oz. Supplex (the pink). What are these fabrics and what’s the difference between them? Supplex like this is created out of texturized nylon woven together to make a fabric that looks and feels quite a bit like cotton. It’s a popular fabric for outdoor wear because it is breathable, wicking, sun protective, has a durable water repellant (DWR) finish, is quick-drying, etc. Supplex is a brand name and Taslan is the generic version of the same type of fabric. Supplex comes in knits as well, so all those qualities I mentioned apply to this specific type of woven nylon Supplex. This was a fabric that I really wanted to try (I find outdoor technical fabrics really interesting), so I placed a big order from The Rain Shed in January for this fabric in multiple colors with several projects in mind. I do think that the pink fabric has more body and the yellow has more drape. I’m not sure why this is, but it’s interesting to note.

Sewing the Windbreaker

I wondered if Taslan/Supplex would be hard to sew, but it wasn’t. I used a 90/14 microtex needle in my sewing machine and whatever my serger came with (I’m still new at the whole serger thing). It went great. One thing to note about the fabric is that it frays, so you’ll want to finish your seems somehow or other. I was even able to press the fabric on the synthetic setting without a press cloth, but test on scraps first! I’m sure it’s not the same with every iron. Also, this doesn’t press well–you get about the press you would get from finger pressing on cotton, maybe less. Still, it was just enough to help as I was making this.

The pattern instructions were excellent. I would consider myself more of a product sewer than a process sewer, i.e., I want the thing at the end more than wanting to just enjoy every little bit of the making, however I really loved sewing this windbreaker. It was just the right combination of helpful, clear instructions and problem-solving to figure out what I thought the optimal seam finish for each part was. I used several internal flat-felled seams and some serging for the most part. I deviated from the instructions on a few points. For instance, I stitched my pink facings down because I hate having facings that flap around and can catch lint in the washer and dryer, plus I like how it looks on this windbreaker.

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update

I should note that the instructions tell you to hand baste at multiple points, but don’t let that put you off. I did this for the zipper (always a good idea, I promise) and skipped it in a number of other areas.

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update

By the way, basting is a great chance to use more brittle, old thread! I always save my old thread that isn’t strong enough for regular sewing and use it for basting. Also, it looks pretty in a nice jar. 🙂

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update

There is one error in the instructions, however. It relates to putting the drawstring in at the waist. Here’s how to fix it: do not put buttonholes in the front pocket before sewing it on. Sew the pocket on completely and then add the buttonholes through the pocket and the front fabric (treat the two layers as one for the buttonholes). Buttonholes should still be positioned as marked, but they must go through both layers; otherwise, when the bottom edge is folded up to form the casing, you won’t be able to thread the drawstring beyond the pocket area. I didn’t realize this until too late and had to open up my casing and just cut through the front fabric behind the buttonholes, and then drown them in Fray Check. Then I reclosed the casing and called it good enough. It does bug me that there are unfinished cuts that could fray, but they are contained in the casing, so what are you gonna do?

Thoughts on the finished windbreaker?

Well, I have yet to put it to the test in drizzly or rainy weather. I’m expecting it to be water-resistant, not to act as an actual raincoat, but I haven’t tried that out yet.

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
McCall’s 5303 windbreaker (sweatshirt)
McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
McCall’s 5303 windbreaker (sweatshirt)

It’s great for slightly cool and windy days, and I love the colors I chose (yellow windbreaker, pink facings and hood lining, and purple zipper).

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update

I may replace the white drawstrings with purple paracord to match the zipper at some point…or maybe purple shoelaces. The yellow is quite see-through, so I’m really glad this is meant to go over a shirt or sweater, rather than be a pair of pants or something. I will also have to decide after wearing it more if I would grade the hips out slightly or shorten it overall if I were to make it again. It is a unisex design, so make sure to check the finished measurements on the back of the envelope before sewing this. I found them very helpful, and I would say this fits really well–any tweaking I’m considering is just trying to finesse things rather than solve an actual problem. Overall, I really like this, and I loved sewing it.

Update on my Spring Outfit Challenge

So, now that the windbreaker is done, where does that leave the spring outfit I’m making? Well, as I mentioned previously, I finished my Coco Top

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top, front
McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
Tilly and the Buttons Coco Top, back

and my Oslo Hat–Mohair Edition (which I’m currently blocking).

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
Oslo Hat–Mohair Edition, before blocking

More recently, I finished the windbreaker and the Sew It Forward Socks.

McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
Sew It Forward Socks
McCall's 5303 Taslan/Supplex Windbreaker and Spring Outfit Challenge Update
Look! I’m a foot model!

I’m currently working on my undergarments (which I won’t be blogging), and then I plan to tackle the Folkwear Sailor Pants! I’m a little nervous about the pants because I know they may need some changes, but I have challenged myself to sew at least 30 minutes every day except Sundays in June, so hopefully that will ward off procrastination. I can feel the pull of summer sewing, so I really want to wrap this up. So far, though, it’s been super fun and has been great for my sewjo.

More next time!