Tag Archives: vintage reissue

From the 1940’s to Today: A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

Standard
From the 1940’s to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

It started with my vest. I had made this really fun knitted vest with so many cool colors, but I didn’t have a lot of button-up shirts to wear with it. And I wanted button-ups in good colors. I tried thrifting, but still didn’t find just what I was looking for.

I wanted to make a cute blouse with a Peter Pan collar. It would be great to make a whole outfit–grass green pants, a lilac purple blouse, and my vest. I ordered samples for pant fabric, but just didn’t feel like I had the time to really dive in. Then I found pants at T.J. Maxx for a great price in the perfect color. The time to make the blouse was now, before it got too warm. I began at the end of April 2023.

I already had Simplicity 8736, a reissued vintage pattern from the 1940’s.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
Peter Pan collar option? Check!
From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

I thought maybe I could make this pattern, moving the buttons from the back to the front. It might even look on trend. I just wasn’t finding my perfect blouse fabric, though.

And then one day I was at Joann’s and decided to look in their quilting cotton section. Right nearby, I found “Symphony Broadcloth” a polyester/cotton blend.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

They had the perfect color, “Sunlit Allium”, but preferring natural fibers in most cases, I looked in the quilting cotton and found the same color. Comparing the two, I saw that the Symphony Broadcloth looked smoother and the color sat better on the fabric. It was also cheaper (on sale, even). After debating a little bit, I decided to give it a try. I could have my imagined shirt, custom-fitted to me for under $10.

And then I found the ideal buttons. The two packs I needed were NOT under $10.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

Again, I debated, but they were just right, so I ordered them from Brooklyn Craft Company. The perfect detail! I was so excited!

I planned to make View B with the collar from View D in a 20 bust and 22 waist and hip, and I decided to leave out the vertical darts. Amazingly, I didn’t need a broad back adjustment. I skipped the optional shoulder pads and moved the buttons to the front.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

In order to move the button placket, I traced the back button placket on its own and cut it out. I folded back that area on my traced back piece at the center back line, making the back piece into one I could cut on the fold. I taped my traced placket to the front, lining up the center back line of the placket and front center fold as well as the lengthen/shorten lines. Next I folded up the placket as it would be folded in the sewn shirt, and traced the top of the neckline so that both sides of the placket area matched. Then I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best!

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
Modified Simplicity 8736 back

I didn’t alter the neck facing quite right, so I just replaced that pattern piece with some wide, single fold bias tape from my stash to finish the neckline. I tacked it to the shoulder seams and back neck darts to keep it down. I still think it’s probably a little tight, but the casual observer is not going to notice that, and it feels ok, so it’s fine.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
I put some neon serging on the inside for an extra bit of secret, colorful detail.
From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

I’m very happy I left off the vertical darts at the bottom back, as the shirt now has the skimming fit with positive ease that I like. I’m also glad I left out the shoulder pads.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

The sleeves are definitely puffy, and this fabric has the body to help them stand up.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
Puffy sleeves!
From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

I think this may be one of those blouses that I look back and laugh at, but for now, I LOVE it. It is distinctive enough that I could feel self-conscious in it, but I know if I saw someone else wearing it, I would think it was really fun, so I’m going with it! It’s perfect with the green pants and, more importantly, with the sweater vest.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
The outfit I dreamed of is now a reality!

And the buttons were worth the splurge.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse

I have only bought Tabitha Sewer buttons twice because they are pretty pricey, but each time, they have been the perfect detail and really given my project an extra jolt of fun.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
Iridescent buttons! YES!!!

Spring here has been long and cool. We’ve had a few warm days, but not many, and I’m trying to use these last cooler days to get a little more wear out of things like this long-sleeved blouse. It’s also nice to know that when fall comes, I’ll have this all ready to go.

From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
From the 1940's to Today:  A Vintage Simplicity 8736 Blouse
Advertisement

Simplicity 9449 Skirt–A Reissued Vintage Pattern

Standard
Simplicity 9449 Skirt–A Reissued Vintage Pattern

It is catch-up time around here! I have several things I have knit or sewn that have been waiting for their turn on the blog, and this is my oldest sewing project in that category. I made Simplicity 9449, View D, a full skirt, for my daughter to wear to church on Christmas Eve 2021. Yikes. My tardiness aside, I would like to say that I just love it when the Big 4 reissue some of their vintage patterns. These are our heritage brands, and they have an amazing catalogue of patterns. I love so many of the vintage ones, but finding one in your size, especially if you don’t fall into typically vintage sizing, can be tricky. The reissues are great because they come in modern size ranges with multiple sizes in one envelope–excellent if you fall into more than one size. One funny thing I noticed, however, was that although this pattern says it’s from the 1960’s on the pattern envelope, there are fashion facts from the 1950’s on the instructions inside. After looking up the original, Simplicity 1235, on the Vintage Pattern Wiki, I found that it was originally published in 1955, so I guess the outside date is a typo.

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern

l

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern

Simplicity 9449 comes with four views: a dress, a jumper, a slim skirt, and a full skirt. My daughter wanted the full skirt, View D, so I went off to Joann’s and found a suitably Christmas-y fabric–a burgundy (AKA “Tawny Port”) polyester crepe. I think it was from their Casa collection, which has fancier fabrics.

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern
Simplicity 9449 front view

Helpfully, Joann’s had coordinating zippers for this fabric line, so I grabbed a matching invisible zipper as well. What a beautiful thing to have perfectly matched fabric and zipper!

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern

We made a few changes to the pattern. I moved the side zipper to the back and we added some in-seam pockets in a fun Rifle Paper Co. quilting cotton that I had left over in my stash.

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern

l

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern
Simplicity 9449, inside front

l

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern
Simplicity 9449, inside back

We omitted the patch pockets that came with the pattern. The pocket pattern piece and directions we did use came from Simplicity 8689. I also added an extra bar to the waistband so that you could adjust the tightness of the waistband just a little bit depending on how you are feeling on a given day.

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern

Overall, it wasn’t too hard to sew, which is great because I do not love sewing to a deadline, and this was definitely one of those deadline situations. I used a microtex 70/10 needle in my sewing machine, sewed everything with a straight stitch and finished seams with my serger. I used silk pins, and did a rolled hem using my sewing machine. That seemed faster than following the hemming directions and I wanted to practice rolled hems.

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern
My rolled hem–not perfect, but improving!

Also, following the hemming directions would have involved a fair amount of pressing, and this fabric did not press well, which is unsurprising since it is made of polyester and is a bouncy crepe. While the pattern envelope calls for an invisible zipper, the directions inside for View D show a standard zipper, so I used the instructions on the zipper package to shorten and install it.

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern
Simplicity 9449 back view (which looks pretty much like the front view)

After I finished, the side seams were weirdly puckered, which you can kind of see in the picture below.

Simplicity 9449 Skirt--A Reissued Vintage Pattern

I resewed them once in case I had caused it by tugging on them to match them up lengthwise, but it didn’t help. Was it because they were on the bias? Because I serged the seam allowances incorrectly somehow? I’m not sure. The front and back seams were just fine, but they’re also on the straight grain, so they’re more stable.

All told, I’m pretty happy with this project, and I think my daughter was, too. This is maybe a half circle skirt, and she loved the fullness, especially when worn with a petticoat. Unfortunately, the polyester fabric is a major static magnet, which is kind of a bummer. So, there were pros and cons. Typos aside, I would make this pattern again. I would rather not use that polyester crepe fabric a second time, however.

This is a good basic pattern that easily gives you a vintage or modern look, depending on how you tweak and style it. Even better, it was something I could make in a short amount of time in the midst of everything else I was working on.