Another week, another sewing project. 🙂 This is the last garment I planned to make during the winter and, luckily, it makes a great transitional garment. It’s Vogue 8932. I have had this pattern for so long and was looking for just the right fabric for it. The copyright on the back says 2013, which is around the time I got serious about sewing. What brought it to my attention in the first place was Bianca’s very cool version from around the same date. I’m pretty sure that it was her jacket that made me seek this pattern out at Joann’s.
I wasn’t quite sure how I wanted to make my version, so this pattern sat in my growing pattern library over the years waiting for its turn. Finally, I decided that a black ponte would be a great first fabric to give this a try. The one I ordered was a rayon/nylon/spandex from Fabric Mart, and is very nice. I rarely sew with black, although I do like it–I just prefer the brighter colors. This time, though, I ordered enough black ponte for a few garments and got to work on this one, choosing to make View B.
This particular pattern says “Easy” on the back. I don’t think that’s very accurate. They may have given it that designation because there’s no real tailoring or a lining or any of that, and the fabrics they call for have stretch, which helps a lot with fitting. However, matching up the various corners and seams is not exactly “easy”, so I would put this at a more intermediate level.
The style lines are very cool and the construction is interesting, although I found it hard to get the corners on the back right. Mine have little holes that I just sort of sewed over and added Fray Check to. I think they’ll be alright, but I wish it were better.
I had the (in my mind) brilliant idea of using Eloflex thread in my needle and woolly nylon in my bobbin because I wanted to use a straight stitch that still had some give. Eloflex is a thread made by Coats & Clark that is slightly stretchy. Woolly Nylon is a fluffy thread that also has some give and is often used for sewing bathing suits, etc. I have been using woolly nylon in my bobbin a lot when sewing knits in general. So, my grand plans were a pretty big failure. I tried needle type after needle type and my thread just kept breaking. It seemed the Eloflex and this ponte were a bad match. Finally, I swapped out the Eloflex for Gütermann All-Purpose polyester thread, and it worked great with a Universal 80/12 needle. I also found that fine silk pins worked better with this fabric than the pins I normally use, which are actually quilting pins. So, with all that thread breakage, the sewing is a bit rough, but I wasn’t about to unpick black on black unless absolutely necessary.
Toward the end, I added these fun flower-shaped snaps, adjusting their position as necessary.
Hopefully they will work as closures. So far, so good, anyway. I also discovered something quite interesting: my waist is about 1″ higher than the marked waistline on this pattern, but the bottom of the jacket seems to hit in just the right spot. So what does that mean? Should I be raising the waist of my patterns while keeping the overall length the same? So far I haven’t noticed the waist area being too much of a problem, but I’m going to pay attention to this with other patterns and give it some thought.
Outside front (this view has exposed seams).
The different bias tape colors on the inside were a result of working with what I had on hand.
The little patches at the corners on the inside of the jacket are bits of knit interfacing, something the pattern instructs you to use in those areas.
I like the fit of this jacket overall. It’s fitted, but not tight. I would love to tell you that I have worn it a ton and it’s a wardrobe staple, but it has still been a little bit cold here and I’ve sort of been living my best loungewear life lately. I can probably count on one hand the number of times I have worn jeans in recent weeks, so we’ll have to see if this ends up being as good as I hope it will.
And now I’m ready for spring sewing!