I love going antiquing. A month or two ago, I went to my local flea market and got a deal on some vintage quilting cotton. Three dollars for 2–3 yards! I thought about what to make with it, and finally settled on Burda Style 6375, a cute wrap skirt with interesting pockets. The plan was to underline it with a cotton sheet for opacity and to reduce wrinkling. It seemed like a fun project to make as the weather is changing.
This pattern has two views, a shorter skirt designed for leather or imitation leather, and a longer skirt created for woven fabrics. I opted to make the woven fabric version (View A) in the shorter length.
My measurements put me just one size outside of Burda’s range, so I looked at the pattern and noted how much space was between each size, and then enlarged the largest size by that amount, creating the next size up. Before cutting, I layered my fabric on top of the sheet with right sides facing out, trying to keep the grainlines going in the same direction. Then I cut both layers out together.
- I underlined each of my pattern pieces—and by underlined, I just mean that I cut them out of both fabrics and then treated the double layers as one. Since neither fabric was slippery, they stayed put once paired together, and I didn’t have to baste them together as is traditional when underlining. For the pockets, the double layers of cotton were a bit too bulky. Perhaps the little triangle pieces on the outside of the pockets could have been underlined in silk organza, but I just forged ahead with my double layers of cotton.
- I left off the the narrow leather bands shown in the illustrations, but they would certainly be a good addition if they fit the look you are after. In retrospect, I wish that I had finished the edge of the facing inside the pocket to prevent fraying. For durability, I stitched two lines around the pockets instead of one and added bartacks to the top corners.
- Due to the bulk of the underlining and fashion fabric, I made sure to grade my seams whenever necessary (waistband and tie especially!).
- I tried to use up whatever lace seam binding I could on the inside of the skirt. It’s such a fun trim, and I have a good amount thanks to the generosity of various people. On seams that weren’t covered in seam binding, I turned and stitched my seam allowances. To do this, you press your seams open, then turn each edge of the allowance under and press again. Finally, you sew each seam allowance, making that last crease permanent and hiding the raw edges from view.
The Confusing Part
The tie, eyelet, and snap closure were a little confusing, but I finally figured it out. I’m putting a lot of pictures in this section in case others get confused. There aren’t a lot of posts or reviews about this pattern, so hopefully this will help.
The snap is meant to go on the inside layers to hold the underlap to the outer layer of the skirt.
The large metal eyelet goes on the outside corner of the waistband.
The tie is a long finished rectangle of fabric that gets sewn to the waistband. Half gets threaded through the eyelet and tied to the other half of the tie.
I also added a button inside the overlap and a buttonhole on the underlap so that I could be sure my skirt wouldn’t come untied and fall open with only the snap to hold it on.
My Big Mistake
I did make one rather large mistake… When the skirt was all finished except for the closures, I tried it on, and found that the underlap just wasn’t long enough. One gust of wind, and I would have a problem on my hands. I knew that I had just measured myself and compared my measurements to the pattern. Why on earth hadn’t Burda made a longer underlap? What were they thinking? How was I going to fix this?
The skirt went in “time out” for a few days while I thought this problem over. I figured I could add more fabric to the underlap, which sounded kind of annoying, but doable (I hate going back to fix things when I’m almost done). Something was bugging me, though. The part of the waistband that was supposed to be attached to the underlap only had fabric hanging down from half of it. That seemed weird. So I went back and studied my pattern pieces. And you know what? The underlap pattern piece said “cut 1 ON FOLD“. By not cutting on the fold, I had only half of the piece! It was all my fault! Rookie mistake.
Luckily, I had just enough fashion fabric and sheet fabric to cut the other half of my skirt piece plus a double seam allowance. I unpicked my finished edge and waistband, attached the other half of the underlap and finished all my edges. NOW I had a skirt that had an EXCELLENT and substantial underlap. No more fear of wind gusts. I hate fixing things, but it didn’t actually take that long, and it was completely worth it.
I really like this skirt now! It turned out cute and very comfortable. I’m happy that I used my vintage find, and with the addition of some bike shorts underneath, I feel really good in this.